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Rolexs sister brand Tudor has enjoyed

DATE

2018-09-04 14:58:48

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At this year’s Baselworld, Tudor unveiled another addition to their always growing Heritage Black Bay series. The new Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel is a largely cosmetic  to the range with a stainless steel bezel  as well as a polarizing date function on an otherwise familiar looking dial. We recently had the opportunity to go hands on with the new Black Bay Steel and came away impressed with the tasteful aesthetics,if a little underwhelmed at the low level of actual novelty.

在今年的巴塞尔展会上,帝舵经典名表启承碧湾潜水表全新推出全钢表款,配搭磨砂钢字圈,并且将日历功能显示置于经典黑色表盘之上。这几天我们有了这个机会去评测这款全新碧湾精钢型腕表,对这枚饶有趣味的腕表留下了深刻的印象。

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Rolex's sister brand Tudor has enjoyed a well-deserved high level of industry attention in recent years, owing mostly to their vintage-inspired releases and their recent introduction of manufacture movements like the silicon hairspring equipped MT5602. One of Tudor’s most successful collections, which is exemplary of their current design sense is the Tudor Black Bay, a diver’s watch which tips its hat to Tudor’s own historical dive watches.

帝舵算是劳力士的兄弟品牌,近年来受到业界高度关注,主要得益于其复古风格系列时计以及最近新推出的自产机芯比如配备硅游丝的MT5602。启承碧湾是帝舵最成功的表款系列之一,这一系列表款以时兴的表款设计成为典范,作为潜水表,其以帝舵传统的潜水时计为基础。

Since the introduction of the ETA-powered Black Bay in 2011, the series has been d and added to each year, most prominently with the addition of the Tudor Manufacture 5602 movement a couple of years ago. Other than that milestone, the Black Bay s have been largely in material, like the Black Bay Bronze we covered here or the Black Bay S&G we covered here, or in color scheme, like the Black Bay Dark we covered here. Tudor’s recent Black Bay Steel seeks to even further round out the collection, which already seemingly offers something for everyone.

2011年,搭载ETA机芯的启承碧湾首度问世,从那以后这一系列表款每年都会进行改造升级,几年前启承碧湾系列配备帝舵自主研发制作的5602机芯闪亮登场。除了这个里程碑之外,碧湾的升级改造主要还是在材质上,比如我们之前测评过的碧湾青铜表款和碧湾黄金钢表款;有的改造是在颜色方面,比如我们之前也测评过的碧湾黑钢表款。而帝舵最近这款碧湾精钢似乎想要进一步完善这一系列,并且看来已经展示了一些供人品鉴的实力。

The new Black Bay Steel’s dial remains similar to its forebears. Steel rimmed Snowflake hands generously filled with Super-LumiNova still preside over a straightforward Submariner-esque dial. Markedly different here is the aforementioned change in dial real estate at the 3 o’clock marker from a lumed hour marker on previous models to a date window on the new Black Bay Steel. This was a bit of a departure because when Tudor originally released the red-bezeled Black Bay in 2011, watch nerds rejoiced over the clean look of the dial, which was provided in no small part by the lack of a date function with its obtrusive window.

全新精钢碧湾的表盘与前作无太多差异。不锈钢雪花型指针上覆盖大面积夜光材料,典型潜水表式表盘。 做了明显改变的地方是前面提到的三点钟位置的设计,从之前条形夜光刻度变成了日期窗口。 这似乎有点离谱,因为当2011年碧湾发布了红色碧湾表款时,表迷们很喜欢这种简洁的表盘,在这枚手表表盘上没有提供日期显示窗口。

The date window on the Black Bay Steel is rectangular and isn't really too obstructive or distracting, which can partly be credited to the fact that there isn't a cyclops lens over it. In fact, as you’ll notice in some of the more distant photographs, the date window’s very presence fades when viewed from only a few feet away. As you’d imagine, the Tudor signature and shield sit at 12 o’clock. Dial text at 6 o’clock is also slightly different, with “200m : 660ft” printed in red above “Chronometer Officially Certified” in white speaking to the impressive MT5612 caliber oscillating within.

腕表上的日期窗口为矩形,并没有很显眼或者干扰读时,可能要归功于日期窗口上面没有设置放大镜。实际上站的稍微远一点,日期窗口基本就不可见了。如你所想,帝舵的logo和标志性盾牌位于12点位置, 表盘6点钟位置的文字也有所不同,用红色字体写着“200米:660英尺”,白色字体写着“天文台官方认证”。